The Necessary Clutch Wallet – A Mini-series – Part 2

So you have your pieces cut out from the pattern now? Time to fuse on the interfacing.

Woven interfacing is great because it matches the texture of the fabric you’ve used and doesn’t leave horrible air bubbles where it hasn’t adhered properly quite so often. It seems to fuse quicker and easier for me, I hope you find the same.

I used medium weight throughout, but because I omitted the edging piece on the flap, I also opted to cut out and fuse a strong piece of buckram to the interfacing for added strength. This was just on the flap outer, so that piece is effectively three layers and the inside is just two- the interfacing and the lining fabric. The buckram will make turning the flap out and pressing it neatly a bit trickier than usual but it’s worth it I think….

The next job is to sew the flap. The instructions are great and this was quick and easy to do. This includes adding the twist clasp. Don’t be afraid of using them, they’re not at all scary. You can also get them pretty cheap from eBay if you’re on a budget. I am making three (possibly four if I decide I also need one!) so I didn’t want to spend much. If you want swanky ones, you can get the Emmaline Bags ‘proper’ hardware HERE.

It’s always good if you can match the thread with the fabric when top stitching

For the fastener, on the flap, I drew around the inside of the eyelet as a cutting guide.

I used E6000 glue for the eyelet part of the clasp and that holds up well, I smear it with a paintbrush and catch the loose ends to stop them fraying too as I don’t have any Fray Check.

It was easier for me to mark the lock prong holes on the front of the fabric and also on a piece of buckram separately using the backplate, slip through the holes on the front and then apply the reinforcement rather than trying to match up the slits on both pieces at the same time.

Drawing the lines for the card pockets was made easier by laying it out on a cutting mat and using the markings to add 2 1/4″ or 1 3/4″ as you go along. I used a ruler and a chaco liner for really clear and easy lines.

This is what your card bit should look like before topstitching the top of each pocket. I found it hard to visualise but you are building it from front to back pockets and the first 2 1/2″ section is the very front and you concertina it back from there along your lines.

Continue following the instructions until you have the backing piece applied to the reverse of the card slots.

And I’m stopping there, this is what I have so far- the card pockets piece and the outer piece. I’ll cover the coin part of the purse and finishing it all up in the next installment.

PART ONE IS HERE